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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.